“Do more of what makes you happy.” This has become my mantra lately, embodying the joy of creating freely, playing with ideas, and embracing challenges that remind me that limits are meant to be surpassed. This was certainly the case with these fagottini filled with blue crab, which originated from a delightful coincidence when I stumbled upon blue crabs from Greece while I was hunting for mushrooms. The outcome exceeded even my expectations, and perhaps that’s the true charm of creative play.
Thus began my journey of firsts. It was my first time working with crabs, my first attempt at making pyramid-shaped pasta, and I crafted a sauce that turned out to be silkier than I had imagined. Just when the dish began to take shape in my mind, I had the pleasure of welcoming Microgreens Romania, arriving just in time to provide those finishing touches that made the whole presentation complete. A few hours later, I had on my table one of the best dishes I’ve ever created, served on handcrafted Japanese ceramic plates.
Preparation Steps:
Crab Meat:
I washed the blue crabs to remove any sand or debris, then submerged them in a pot of boiling water until their color transformed into a brilliant orange. After transferring them to a bowl of ice water to cool, I cleaned them and extracted the meat, keeping the shells and claws for stock.
I seasoned the crab meat with Maldon salt, Tellicherry pepper, a dash of Tabasco, and lemon juice, then covered it with plastic wrap to let the flavors meld while I focused on the pasta.
Pasta Dough:
I mixed 175g of Italian bread flour with 75g of semolina and created a well in the center for 4 egg yolks. I began forming the dough by hand, adding warm water and a drizzle of olive oil until the desired consistency was achieved, kneading until elastic. I wrapped the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerated it for half an hour while I prepared the stock.
Stock:
I simmered the crab remnants with a whole shallot, the white part of a leek, a bay leaf, some peppercorns, and two peeled garlic cloves for 30 minutes. I strained the liquid, retaining only the broth and the garlic, and placed it back on low heat to reduce further. As it simmered, I retrieved the crab meat from the fridge and brought out the pasta machine to begin shaping the fagottini.
Fagottini Filled with Crab:
I rolled the pasta dough through the machine to its thinnest setting, producing beautiful yellow sheets, which I laid out on my work surface. To prevent them from drying, I covered them with a slightly damp towel.
I cut 8 cm squares from the sheets and placed a small amount of crab meat in the center of each square, along with an egg yolk. I folded the squares to create pyramids, ensuring to expel any air inside to prevent them from bursting during cooking. I let the fagottini dry on a kitchen rack while I finished the sauce.
Sauce:
As the broth reduced, I added 100 ml of white wine, allowing it to simmer until it thickened, then repeated the process with another 100 ml. When it was nearly reduced, I stirred in 35% fat cream, whisking continuously, which turned the garlic into a creamy texture that perfectly blended with the sauce. I seasoned it with salt and pepper, continuing to stir on low heat until I achieved the finest, most balanced sauce that my kitchen assistant and I couldn’t resist sampling straight from the pot.
Final Preparations and Plating:
I submerged the fagottini in a pot of boiling salted water for three minutes. Any longer, and the precious yolk inside would harden, depriving us of the delightful flowing center. When the pasta floated to the surface, I removed them and sautéed them in a pan with beurre noisette for a minute, coating them in a silky layer of butter.
I plated a ribbon of the silky sauce, then arranged the fagottini on top, garnishing with microgreens and a sprinkle of freshly grated Tellicherry pepper. As a visual suggestion of the filling, I included a crab claw. To enhance the main star of the evening—this exquisite dish—I chose to serve it on dark-hued handcrafted Japanese ceramic plates, layering two plates for a beautiful, almost musical presentation that invites you to lose yourself in a culinary dream.
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